Arctic Bound

I'm currently in Toronto in between two trips to the Canadian Arctic. The first one, to a safari camp in the Torngat Mountains in northern Labrador, was one of the journeys of my lifetime and it is going to be immensely hard to do justice to it in my stories. We had amazingly warm weather, saw several polar bears and black bears, an Arctic hare up close, Minky whales, beautifully crafted icebergs floating in fjords and had the privilege of plenty of close contact with a number of Inuit people. The opportunity to talk with people like Eli, who was a bear monitor on our many hikes, was priceless and he taught me a lot about his life, family and spiritual beliefs. It's uncommon in my experience to have such an authentic connection with indigenous people and to not feel you are intruding into their lives. On a lighter note, the mad Aussie threw himself into a fjord, a waterfall, a mountain lake and a river and the madness became catching as several others in my party and Jacko, an Inuit guide from Parks Canada, also went swimming. To cap it all off we dined for two nights with Canada's Environment Minister, Jim Prentice, who is touted as the country's next Prime Minister - with whom I chatted about Hemingway - and with the Queen's representative in Newfoundland, John Crosbie and his lovely wife. I now have a personal invitation to government house in St Johns and I am very tempted to take them up on it.

At times like that last week I really have to pinch myself to ensure that I am really where I think I am. It was so wild, so untouched and so beautiful - some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever witnessed -that the Canadian Arctic has once again left a huge mark on my soul. Apparently, once the Arctic gets inside you, it's a lifelong love and I feel that way. I definitely want to see Antarctica before I die but the special thing about the Arctic is the presence of the amazing Inuit people and their relationship with the landscape and the wildlife.

Now, I have another rare opportunity, to travel through the Northwest Passage on an expedition with the Inuit owned Cruise North. It's an eight day trip on a ship I travelled through Hudson Bay on last year and a colleague, Fiona Harper, is one of several other travel writers coming along. It will be a different experience but last year I know they saw 27 polar bears and got stuck in the ice and had to be rescued by the coast guard. So again it will no doubt be memorable.

I've only had two days in Toronto but it's been sunny and warm while I've been here and I've seen quite a bit of it. As usual I try to walk everywhere in a new city as I really feel it's the best way to absorb it. It's super vibrant and probably the most American of the Canadian cities I've visited. Personally, after being in the Arctic, I found going up the CN Tower, one of the tallest buildings in the world, an absolute nightmare. There were long queues to get up it and get down again and visitors jostling for the best vantage points. But eating with friends in various different neighbourhoods has been a much better experience and the locals seem super friendly. I've been staying at the Westin Harbour Castle on the shores of Lake Ontario and thoroughly recommend the place - the staff are excellent.

I have a story on Pacific Palms today in the Sydney Morning Herald travel section. How can you sum up the place you live in seven hundred words plus a fact box? I tried because we have an important event - The Small Footprint Initiative - coming up in two weeks time and the publicity can only help. But anyhow it's nice to have a reminder of home while I am here in Toronto. I've spoken to Sarah and Mila by Skype and while I know it's hard for Mum to cope with the two girls without a second parent's presence, they seem to be doing well.

Well, I've got to get ready to get the train to Montreal this afternoon, a five hour ride that is supposed to go through some pretty countryside. Then after an overnight in an airport hotel it's off to the Arctic again. I feel like one of the most fortunate people on earth right now. I may never be rich but boy I feel rich in experiences.