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Monday, August 2, 2010

Vanuatan smiles

Well, I've just been in Vanuatu for a week during the 30th anniversary independence celebrations and am now back home with the girls. I don't want to be predictable but I missed them like mad and while it was certainly an interesting visit, I'm glad to be home.

While in Vanuatu I spent a few days on the island of Tanna, where the tourism infrastructure remains very basic. The cross island roads are only for the most experienced fourwheel drivers and you have to be patient as it takes a helluva long time to get anywhere. There is an impressive active volcano to visit, although as a contact lens wearer being showered with regular bursts of volcanic ash, I can't say I saw much other than a blurry outline of some explosive eruptions, while grit between my cornea and lens brought floods of tears to my eyes. My guide must have thought I was having a truly emotional experience!

Apparently the people of Vanuatu were named the happiest in the world according to a 2006 survey and I must say most of them seem to smile a lot, in spite of having very little. I visited traditional villages where they have barely changed the way they live in centuries and still buy their wives with pigs. They worship Prince Philip in one of those villages, believing him to be the reincarnation of one of their spirit ancestors and it must be one of the few places in the world where the old fella is considered more important than his wife, HRH the Queenie. I've promised to send a message to Buckingham Palace from the village, asking the Duke Of Edinburgh to visit the village next year, so we'll see what response I get.

Other not for print experiences include arriving at my basic accommodation and being told I was sharing a bungalow with my female escort from the Vanuatan Tourist Office. Now I am very liberal but this seemed just a little inappropriate to me! I also had my all-time worst meal on a press trip at a restaurant in Port Vila and a few things on my itinerary simply didn't eventuate but hey, you need to be patient when you travel places where there is little tourism infrastructure. Oh and during a snorkel in very shallow water off Iririki Island, just off Port Vila, I got startled by a very inquisitive sea snake. It came right up to my mask and was ready to give me a venomous smooch. Still at least I wasn't sharing my room with it.

I might go back to Vanuata one day with the girls. One village chief has invited my family back for their main festival and I reckon it'd be great to expose the kids to life in a traditional community. However, no matter how many pigs I'm offered for Mila or Freya, I'm afraid I'll have to say no.

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